Surfing is like a spiritual practice because it's very grounding. It's good for the soul.
The joy of surfing is so many things combined, from the physical exertion of it, to the challenge of it, to the mental side of the sport.
Surfing is the most blissful experience you can have on this planet, a taste of heaven.
Surfing is very much like making love. It always feels good, no matter how many times you've done it.